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The Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR) in South Africa is one of the leading scientific and technology research, development and implementation organisations in Africa. It undertakes directed research and development for socio-economic growth.

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Getting to grips with... natural fibres

An exploration of the lesser-known world of natural fibres in SA

Mention the words ‘natural fibre’ and most people immediately think of a tasteless cereal that they spoon down during breakfast time. That, however, is not the kind of natural fibres that researchers at the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR) are focusing their attention on. Instead you should think of wild silk, cashmere, sewing yarn, seat covers and textile used to stabilise roads with. Then link those thoughts up with Mopane worms, indigenous goats, the plant tequila is made from, pineapple leaves and other unusual products from plants such as hemp, flax and kenaf.

But, before you find out what researchers are trying to accomplish with natural fibres, some basics about natural fibres to digest.

What are natural fibres?
According to the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations, natural fibres may be defined as “those renewable fibres from plants or animals which can be easily transformed into yarn for textiles”. Natural fibres form an important component in the manufacturing of clothing, upholstery and other textiles. Many types can also be used in industrial applications such as the making of paper, packaging, rope or composite materials.
Why use natural fibres rather than synthetic fibres?
The use of natural fibres only recently became popular once again, especially in the automotive and aerospace industries, because of the drive for more environmentally friendly products and because of a number of advantages natural fibres hold over synthetic ones.
What role does the CSIR play?
South Africa is not a major player in the world of natural fibres. That does not mean, however, that we cannot be an innovative player with the resources we do have available. At the CSIR, researchers are investigating interesting and novel uses for natural fibres such as kenaf, flax, hemp, wool, silk, mohair and agave, as well as natural fibre reinforced composite materials for applications in the building, automobile and aerospace industries.
Establishing an Agave americana industry in South Africa
Agave americana is the plant species that gave the world tequila – that fiery Mexican alcoholic party drink. While it is not indigenous to South Africa, it was introduced to the Karoo in the early 1900s and took to its new region in much the same fashion that salt and lemon took to tequila. Fortunately for the people of the poverty stricken Eastern Cape, there is much more to Agave than just tequila. The secret lies in its long, blue-gray, spiny, fibrous leaves.
Adding further value to South African indigenous goats through the production of cashmere
Because of its superb softness and comfort and being the second finest animal fibre produced in fairly large quantities, cashmere has become one of the world’s most sought after animal fibres. With the exception of Angora, all goats have fleeces containing two distinct populations of fibre; a long, course, waterproof overcoat and a soft, fine, dense undercoat known as down or cashmere.
Exploring hemp as an environmentally-friendly alternative for the use of glass fibres in engineering composites
Hemp is a distinct variety of the plant species Cannabis sativa L – yes, the one that can be smoked and that has been banned in many countries (including South Africa). But marijuana cannot be made from hemp because it contains virtually no tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the active ingredient in marijuana.
Silk from the bushveld
Silk is generally produced from cocoons of the silk-producing moth, commonly called the ‘silkworm’. The cocoon, formed from an unbroken fibre secreted from the caterpillar’s body, is gathered and the fibre unwound in a labour-intensive exercise.
Who would be a typical natural fibre researcher?
There really is no such thing as a ‘typical’ natural fibre researcher. To do research on natural fibres you need a multidisciplinary team. The CSIR’s team consist of biochemists, microbiologists, chemists, computer simulation specialists and textile designers, to name but a few.
Did you know? (some interesting natural fibre tidbits)
  • Since the 1960s, the use of synthetic fibres has increased and, as a result, natural fibres have lost a lot of their market share.
  • South Africa produces around 54% of the world’s Mohair supply. Most of it comes from the Eastern Cape and ‘Cape Mohair’ is known to be the best quality in the world.
  • The International Year of Natural Fibres
    This is the first in a series of monthly articles on natural fibres.For more about the International Year of Natural Fibres please go to the website set up by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
    (see http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/index.html)
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