Because of its superb softness and comfort and being the second finest animal fibre produced in fairly large quantities, cashmere has become one of the world’s most sought after animal fibres. With the exception of Angora, all goats have fleeces containing two distinct populations of fibre; a long, course, waterproof overcoat and a soft, fine, dense undercoat known as down or cashmere.

South Africa has a rich resource of approximately 6.3 million indigenous goats that are primarily kept by subsistence farmers for their meat, milk and skin products. Though you wouldn’t think so by gazing at a typical ‘boerbok’, many of the local breeds, including Boer, Savannah and traditional goats, do possess the ability to produce cashmere. Many years of breeding have, however, favoured the overcoat and rather ignored the development of fine down of good quality and quantity.

The CSIR focused its cashmere research, which is funded by the Eastern Cape Department of Agriculture, on the fibre evaluation, processing and utilisation while it partnered with the Grootfontein and Döhne Agricultural Development Institutions to concentrate on breeding and genetic research.

While research is ongoing it has been established that indigenous South African goats have great potential for the establishment of a sustainable cashmere industry. The next stage is to pilot cashmere projects in the Eastern Cape, particularly formerly Transkei area, where most goats are found. The goats will be upgraded by selective breeding while appropriate technologies are sourced and developed to convert the combed cashmere into consumer products.