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Walter, the sweating manikin |
Researcher Reena Pandurum |
Revolutionary technology techniques to ensure garment comfort for South Africans are being employed by the CSIR's fibres and textiles technology area.
One such, the South African Sizing Survey (SizeSAfrica), will provide the clothing industry with accurate and exact 3D body measurement data to develop sizing charts to fit the uniquely-shaped South African body profile.
SizeSAfrica is the first national electronic survey to be conducted on the South African population using a 3D body scanner to capture between 100 to 200 landmark measurement points of both the upper and lower body in six seconds. Using 3D technology, more accurate and exact measurement information can be obtained from the 3D surface cloud form of the subject. The method is quick, non-intrusive and use white light to capture the 3D scan.
The survey measurement data set is a dynamic set of information, which is captured and can be re-analysed once new needs arise, making 3D body scanning the sizing survey technique of the future.
There is an overwhelming need for accurate and statistically significant South African population size and shape data. This will assist the clothing industry to manufacture both outer and intimate apparel wear. Data usage will enable the establishment of national sizing scales for all ranges of apparel to better serve the consumer and enhance the business performance of the apparel retailers and the manufacturers. This survey is not only beneficial to the large to medium-scale retailer or manufacture, but also the brand owner. As the population becomes more diverse in shape, due to life-style and socio-economic changes, maintaining the same size scale and break point for grading will result in lost consumer sales where customers will purchase clothes that fit.
Internationally, the benefits of using 3D scan measurement data are already being realised by retailers, manufacturers and brand owners that have used the 3D scan data to make adjustments to clothes; which a statistically greater number of consumers now purchase from graded sizes; and adjusting break points have allowed a greater cross section of consumers to fit into a standard size, even those that are 'brand skewed'.
This survey is undertaken in collaboration with external stakeholders. The CSIR and currently eight major retailers, one manufacturer, academics and technology partners are involved.
With another technique, a sweating manikin, Walter, is used for testing the functionally and comfort level of various clothing designs and materials. Walter was acquired by the CSIR's regional office in Port Elizabeth. This fabric manikin sweats like a real person and is made out of water and waterproof breathable fabric 'skin', which simulates the characteristics of human perspiration with high accuracy and reproductively.
Walter allows the realistic simulation of human thermal physiology under different environments. It allows the simulation of walking to achieve a body temperature at a speed of (0-5 km/h) distribution similar to a real person by pumping warm water at the body temperature of 37 °C.
Using a number of temperature and humidity sensors, the manikin and clothing being tested are connected to a computer. This controls and monitors the rate of heat loss and perspiration.
The key purpose of the manikin is to simulate the human thermal physiology under various environments. It can measure and provide results of two key clothing parameters, which are thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance in a single step. It accurately and rapidly measures evaporative heat loss and moisture vapour resistance of different fabrics and garments, providing essential feedback for product development for the textile and clothing industry. Being a very useful tool for the evaluation of clothing thermal comfort, this objective comfort measurement offers improved product quality and customer satisfaction.
Apart from being utilised by research students, Walter assists different clothing manufactures to determine how clothing can interact with the human body, at the same time enhancing the apparel design with safer and comfortable features, especially for functional and sportswear.
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