Overview: Fibres and Textiles

Fibres and textiles - also operating as the National Textile and Clothing Centre of Excellence

Conducts collaborative and innovative research to enhance the competitive capabilities of the South African textile and clothing industries. The centre focuses on fibres, textiles and clothing, using emerging technologies such as nanotechnology, biotechnology, as well as polymer and natural fibre composite technologies.

Research areas

Nonwoven platform
A nonwoven platform has been established as a joint initiative between the CSIR and the Department of Trade and Industry (the dti), enabling a wide range of nonwoven products to be developed and the associated research and development (R&D) to be undertaken. The platform provides a world-class nonwoven facility for local textile producers that can be used fornR&D and product development. The nonwoven pilot plant uniquely combines several technologies for the production of a wide variety of nonwoven fabrics and related products.

Fibre processing
The fibre processing research and product development area comprises of different types of technologies needed for the conversion of fibres, yarns, and fabrics. These include fibre preparation facilities, ring preparatory spinning and rotor spinning, winding, weaving and knitting technologies. Areas of research include bast fibres (kenaf, flax and hemp); animal fibres (wool, silk and mohair); mechanical and biotechnological modification of fibres, and the production and testing of fibre for speciality products.

Fibre modification
Fibre modification research is aimed at developing and applying techniques and technologies which impart new properties to fibres, increasing their functionality. Research areas include: sol gel coating using inorganic-organic polymers to, for example, produce flame retardant fabrics; bicomponent fibre extrusion using different polymers and additives, such as nano-particles; fibre surface modification using enzymatic, ultrasound or plasma treatments and electro-spinning of nanofibres for medical applications. Apart from R&D work, the well equipped laboratories are also used to assist industry with problem solving and quality control on fibres, yarns and fabrics.

Clothing technology
Research in this area is focused on providing leadership and solutions for sustainability of the clothing industry. Research activities include: flexible body mechanics of textiles and clothing, and development of automated technologies; sizing, fit evaluation and examination of the made-to-measure concept by utilising a 3-D body scanner; and comfort evaluations of garments by utilising a sweating manikin.

Research projects

Nonwoven

• An expert system for process optimisation.
• The development of nonwoven fabrics from flax fibre waste for air-filtration.
• The modelling of flexible fibrous assemblies project aims to develop computer-based models for different physical phenomena involved in the actual applications of the textile materials.
• Natural fibre reinforced composite materials for applications in the building, automobile and aerospace industries are aimed at developing composite materials for structural and non-structural applications.

Fibre processing

• A comparative study of the characteristics of the flax fibre grown during pilot trials in the Eastern Cape is being conducted to investigate the effect of the flax "cottonisation" process on the development of blending compositions with increasing percentages of flax.
• Different flax/cotton blended products processed on cotton processing systems are being developed.
• Beneficiation of the Agave Americana plant and especially waste generation after tequila extraction is under investigation. Beneficiation centres on fibre extraction, technical textiles development, paper-making and inulin extraction.

Fibre modification

• Research is currently focusing on imparting flame retardancy to cotton using various techniques, such as the sol gel technique, aiming at improving multi-functionality.
• Novel research around electrospinning has been initiated to develop nanofibre products utilising nonwoven technologies.
• Pioneering work is being carried out using ICT to disseminate technical and scientific knowledge on the properties, processing and utilisation of natural fibres, such as wool and mohair. This is being done in partnership with wool and mohair grower organisations and industry.

Clothing

• A research project utilising the 3-D body scanner aims to analyse skirt silhouettes on fit models. Body measurements are used to alter parametric models.
• Experimentation with nanofinishes on spunlaced nonwovens to impart water repellence and breathable properties on fabric for application in protective clothing for farmers.
• A pilot "garment fit study" among 12-year-old girls using the 3D full-body scanner is being conducted to develop South Africa's own sizing system.